September on the Niangua

The cool air and distant scent of wood smoke signal my favorite time of year for camping. We make it a point to plan one or two trips as the temperatures cool and the leaves begin to change, often finding ourselves greeted by uncommon peace: less crowded campgrounds and ideal weather for hiking, fishing, or simply relaxing by a fire.

Our first trip was slated for late September. We booked a roomy family site, envisioning a weekend of floating and fishing with my son and his girlfriend. Friday, we planned to float the Niangua from the Bennett Spring Access to Barclay, and then dedicate Saturday and Sunday to fly fishing the spring for trout. We arrived on Thursday afternoon to find we weren’t the only ones taking advantage of the gorgeous weather. The campground wasn't full, but as the sun dipped, painting the trees in soft, golden light, only a few vacancies were remaining.

We leveled our home away from home and began setting up camp to await our visitors. As always, I pulled campfire duty, stacking dry oak that smelled sweetly of cedar and smoke. At the same time, my wife prepared one of our delicious staples: a simple, satisfying mixture of smoked sausage, red and yellow bell peppers, and onion. It is delicious in its simplicity, especially when shared with loved ones beside the warm, comforting rhythm of a crackling fire.

Our guests arrived just as the woods began to fade into the night, and the scent of supper wafted through the light breeze. We quickly helped them settle before circling the fire to eat and discuss the plan for the next morning. There was a definite excitement in the air as we discussed the lures and techniques we’d use. This would be my son's and his girlfriend's first smallmouth bass fishing adventure. I was giddy like a kid on Christmas Eve, thinking about a day on the river casting lines with family. The Niangua is known for its abundance of smallmouth bass, though rainbow trout would be our best bet downstream from where we would begin. After catching up and sharing a few s’mores, we turned to watch the last embers glow and settle, the river whispering its promises in the dark. Tomorrow was a big day!

We woke to temperatures in the mid-fifties; the air was crisp. A light fog blanketed the campground, and the faint, comforting smell of charred oak and coffee lingered in the heavy air. Neighboring campers clinked tackle boxes as they readied their equipment and, one by one, left to find their place on the spring-fed stream before the 7:30 am start time. After some coffee and one last check of our fishing gear, we proceeded to the boat ramp where we would begin today’s adventure. We quickly unloaded, left the ladies to attend the kayaks, and made the 20-minute drive to the takeout. We would leave the truck there so after the float, we could load the boats and head back to camp. My son and I were all smiles as we rode back together with hopes of landing a few giants on the river. 

The water of the Niangua was cool as the morning air and flowed clear and calm. Aside from a few youngsters casting spinners from the bank, we were the only ones at the ramp. Our launch was seamless, and we were underway in no time; our next stop was the Barclay Conservation Area. We encountered our first group of fly anglers just past the Hwy 64 bridge. We exchanged pleasantries and wished luck, trying not to disturb them as we rode the riffle past their location. We threw a variety of lures between the four of us. For the morning, topwater rigs and roostertails were the chosen baits. We hadn’t floated far when my son's bone-colored Whopper Plopper skittered and gurgled near a submerged blowdown. Suddenly, the water exploded! A hungry smallmouth ambushed the lure, and my son was instantly 'on the board'

We encountered very few people on the nearly 7-mile float. The water was clear and cold on our feet; the riffles were manageable for all. Blue skies followed us as the temperature rose into the eighties for the afternoon. Several turtles and the occasional snake sunned themselves on exposed limbs unbothered by our kayaks. A whitetail doe fed on the bank of the river, stopping only to watch as we floated past. Our presence did not affect her gobbling the acorns we heard falling near the water. We made frequent stops to fish some of the deeper holes and take in the scenery at each location.  As a group, we caught a variety of fish, including my son’s first spotted bass, a 15.5” bruiser on a black and blue jig. A smallmouth bronzed and defiant, pulled against his girlfriend's medium-light spinning rod. When she finally brought it to the kayak, her giggles of excitement echoed off the bluffs. This was her first-ever smallie, and she was absolutely beside herself. After experimenting with both topwater and subsurface baits, we successfully caught rainbow trout, the aggressive goggle-eye, spotted bass, and hard-fighting bronzeback smallie.  

With one last run through a riffle, we found ourselves a short paddle from the takeout. The day was long but very gratifying. We caught fish and enjoyed each other's company in a beautiful setting. While the Niangua River is a hot spot for summer floats and often resembles a water park lazy river, fall can be a great time to float and fish without the party crowds. Summer has concluded, and most have returned to their regular schedules, leaving the river to those who seek the tranquility and peace of a quiet Ozark River. As we loaded the kayaks onto the truck, the setting sun glinted off the water, and I knew for sure that the wide smiles on my everyone's faces meant this was the first of many quiet fall adventures on the Niangua.